Healthy Hair is Happy Hair

But how do we get there?!?! We hear all of the talk about healthy hair, and we see all of the images of women who have gone that extra mile and have made the big chop! Is that the only way to recover from the madness  that we have put our hair through? Is that the answer, the last resort, or simply a choice???

Well, it all depends on how you look at it, and how much work you are willing to put in.  As a woman who has taken that step, and made the big chop, I can honestly say it was nothing more than a choice for me.  I had been natural for about four years, but still weaved my hair regularly without regard for trimming, treating, conditioning, or loving my own hair. It came to the point that I was ready to wear my own hair, but I did not want to deal with the thinning edges, or the broken ends, so I made the big chop. Truth is, I just wanted to rock the short curly look, but I could have easily met my hair where it was and treated it to health...

Before Big Chop

After Big Chop

Now on the contrary, there are actually those that think a hair cut is the only option.  That is not the case at all. Regular trims are one thing, but chopping just to get to a healthy point is not the best way to have happy hair. It is better to maintain the health of the hair before getting to the point where a haircut is the only way to go. 

One way to do this is in fact to get regular trims. And just for clarification a trim is not a haircut!!! It is just what it indicates; taking a little off to maintain health, and eliminate damaged ends. A trim takes off, split, brittle, and damaged ends, and also keeps hair looking neat and well kept. On average you should trim your hair every six to eight weeks, taking off about one eigth to one half of an inch, depending on need.  It is best to use cutting shears specifically made for cutting hair. Regular scissors are not sharp enough and can end up doing more harm than good. 

There are also ways to avoid split ends. For instance avoiding excessive heat, avoiding the use of rubber bands, and keeping the ends of the hair well moisturized can work wonders. Also wearing protective hairstyles, like  twists and cornrows, will allow your hair a break from the stress of everyday styling. 

Now Ladies, I hate to beat this horse to death but clean hair, just like a clean scalp, leads to happy hair.  I know the age old theory that "dirty" hair acts better... It lays down, wraps properly, and looks better. But the truth is, it is weighed down with oils, product, dust, and other things our hair is exposed to on a regular basis.  Hair needs to be clean, free of dirt, and oils in order for the scalp to receive oxygen and for hair to grow.  Clean hair, is hair that has been properly shampooed, to cleanse the hair of any type of build up. On average hair should be shampooed every two weeks, however once a week is even better. 

Lastly, I have to visit something that we have all heard before, but the importance CANNOT be stressed enough.  Many of the things that we regularly do to our hair strip our hair of moisture, so it is imperative that we restore that moisture in some fashion.  That is where, yes you've got it ladies.... "Conditioning " makes a return appearance.  Flat ironing, blow drying, curling, relaxing, extreme weather, and other factors play a significant role on the condition of our hair. Excessive exposure to any one, or more than one of these factors can reek havoc on our tresses, so do not be afraid to use conditioner. 

One definition of conditioner is... a substance that improves the condition of something else, so it will not do you harm. Take my word for it, it will make a significant difference in the feel and quality of your hair.

Alright, looks like we've reached the end of another informational session. Remember to keep your hair happy, next time we will discuss when styling goes wrong. Until then, Hold on to your hair!

From Root To Tip

It is true that in order to have healthy hair you have to start at the root. Focusing only on the hair that has grown out will keep your tresses flourishing for some time, however having a healthy head of hair means taking care of everything in it's entirety. In other words, having healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp.

But what exactly is a healthy scalp? One that is well moisturized?, One that is shampooed?, One that is well groomed?... Yes, yes, and yes!!! To one degree or another, all of the above constitute the components of a healthy scalp.

A healthy scalp is one that is clean, well conditioned, and well taken care of.  Free of  dry patches, bumps, cuts, burns, or scars from the remnants of tight braiding, relaxers, rough styling, or any other common styling practices that may lead to stress on the hair and/ or scalp; thereby resulting in unhealthy conditions.

Wow!  That sounds like a lot, but in actuality, it is not difficult to maintain a healthy scalp once you put certain practices into place. First and foremost, the scalp must be clean.  A clean scalp is a happy scalp, but DON'T overdo it. Hair should not be shampooed on a daily basis. Shampooing hair too frequently will strip the hair and scalp of needed moisture, causing excessive dryness.  Ideally hair should be cleansed at least once a week, but should not exceed two weeks without being shampooed.

Once hair is clean, it SHOULD be conditioned.  This is an essential step in maintaining healthy scalp and hair. Soooo many people overlook this step, but conditioning can restore moisture lost through shampooing, and other activities that may take away from the moisture in the hair.  Moisture can be lost if the air is too dry, blow drying hair can strip moisture, sleeping on certain fabrics can pull moisture from the hair, and certain styling practices do as well.   After shampooing, a leave in conditioner should be applied to the hair, and if at all possible a water based leave in conditioner can be added to the hair daily. At least once a month, a deep conditioner should be employed as well.

For those willing to step outside of the box, co-washing is a very beneficial way to ensure that the hair and scalp stay properly conditioned and moisturized.  It involves cleansing the hair and scalp without the use of shampoo, but rather with conditioner.  The idea behind this is to eliminate the use of sodium lauryl sulfate which is the drying/ cleansing ingredient found in shampoo. With co- washing the hair is left soft, supple, and clean! I was a skeptic too, but now I know never to knock it until you try it, it worked so well for me.  Using this method, hair still needs to be shampooed with "actual" shampoo at least once a month. 

Word to the wise:  make this the same once a month that you do your deep conditioning, that way the hair is still being exposed to a good source of moisture and conditioner.

After the shampoo, and conditioner, the hair is ready to be styled, but what next???

If you must utilize heat to dry your hair, then try combing the hair straight down and sitting under a hooded dryer for thirty minutes or so.  The heat will not be as intense as a hand held dyer, and the impact is not directly frying and stealing all of the moisture away either. If you can avoid it all together, forgo the drying process and let the hair dry naturally. You will find that hair "behaves" best under this circumstance. 

Before styling, the scalp should be properly oiled.  I recommend a light natural oil, like avacado, or  grape seed oil that will neither cake up to clog pores, nor will it create a residue or stench like many petroleum based greases. Section hair off and apply the oil with an applicator tip bottle if available to ensure an even distribution throughout. After moisturizing the scalp, pour a dime sized amount into the palm of your hand, and massage evenly into the hair. The hair is now ready to style.

Whoa! we have covered a lot of ground with a lot more to go, but no one ever said it was easy being beautiful! Now that we know how to keep keep our scalp happy, next time we will take on the quest to keeping our hair happy. Until then, hold on to your hair!

Stop The Madness!... Part 2

Let's see where did we leave off??? We were discussing the terrible habits that we love to love when it comes to our wonderful hair. So we've covered over- processing, and we've touched on over-styling.  Our next category still pertains to styling, however it deals more with the particular style than the actual styling process.  Now, I can attest to the fact that keeping up on a hairstyle is no picnic, especially when you add in kids, work, limited time, and the regular mishaps that life often dishes our way. However, there is never really a legitimate reason to subject our hair to some of the foolishness that we do. Again, I remind you all that at some point or another, I too have been guilty of these practices. I like to call this section The Intentional,  and soon you'll understand why...  

THE INTENTIONAL:

      

The issue in this category is primarily the tight braids. I do not deny that braids are beautiful, I love them all; cornrows, micros, Senegalese, African twists, French braids, and the list goes on and on. But as beautiful as they are, they can leave behind ugly traces across the scalp, leading to traction alopecia.  Traction alopecia is just a fancy way of saying "self induced baldness".  This type of alopecia results from the constant stress on a certain part of the hair; namely excessive pulling from wearing tight braids or ponytails.  Whether the hair is added or natural, LOOSEN UP! Another way to prevent this type of hair loss is to avoid putting any type of stress on that particular part of the hair when styling. Between braids wear hair in a wrap, allowing the edges a chance to relax. Note that I said "between braids", this implies that braids should not be warn back to back. Taking part in this type of pattern is almost a guarantee that you will create a receding hairline for yourself.  Now here comes the "intentional" part...

As a woman who has suffered from the "self inflicted bald or thinning edges syndrome" I know for a fact that this is not a condition that sneaks up on you. Unlike naturally occurring alopecia, there is a very real and obvious solution to this problem. But still we ignore the signs.  First the hair forms hair bumps, usually around the perimeter, or hairline, signifying that the style is too tight. Then there is noticeable thinning, eventually a significant amount of hair falls out, exposing the scalp.  This is a very prevalent phenomenon, but instead of healing our hair we put in more tight braids or weave to cover up the embarrassing bald spots, and so the cycle begins, ravaging our precious hair.

THE UNAVOIDABLE: 

 

 

Yes ladies, it would appear that all odds are against us. Even when we are not the culprits or source, it seems even nature is involved! Weather, along with other extrinsic, and environmental factors can contribute to the "weathering" of our hair. In combination with what we do to our hair, weathering is the natural breakdown of the hair which tears away the cuticle and exposes the cortex of the hair over time.  This process is exacerbated by things like sun exposure, sea salt exposure, chemicals, and  other environmental factors. To make matters worse, neglecting your hair by any means will speed up this process even more.

HMMM??? :

HMMMM:

We have been through the main and somewhat justifiable things that women do to inhibit the health of their hair. On the contrary,  there are some things that just cannot be explained and thus neglect to require an explanation as to why they should be avoided... Stop me if you dare, here we go...

1. Gel Downs
2. Excessive use of petroleum based products
3. Rainbow hair
4. Skipping Conditioner
5. Skipping Trims
6. Cutting with "non hair cutting" scissors

And I'm sure the list goes on and on, and on. If I left any pertinent one's off, please feel free to comment. Next time we will visit "Healthy Hair Practices".  Until then, hold on to your hair!

Stop the Madness!... Part 1

Often in life, the negative aspects of a situation stand out before the positive.  In this case, there is no difference.  Let's not fall under the assumption that I want to pick on anyone, or create a negative vibe, but I find it easier to understand the solution,  or "proper hair care" if we first visit the problem, or "improper hair care". There is no easy way to sum up all of the "bad" things that we do to our hair, so let's just start with the obvious...

• OVER-PROCESSING:

This is the practice of applying chemicals in the hair with increased frequency, without proper application, and /or interval spacing.  The result of over-processing is dry, damaged, weakened, thin, and limp hair,  Characteristics of over-processed hair include, hair that pops when manipulated while wet, giving it a slimy or stretchy feeling, hair that cannot hold a curl, hair that has a brassy dull appearance, and hair that breaks or sheds easily when handled during styling, eventually leading to a reduction of fullness. Over- processing is caused by any chemical treatment used more frequently than intended. This includes relaxers, texturizers, color treatments, and permanent waving. Over-processing results when the hair cuticle is repeatedly lifted which causes hair to become over porous; meaning it absorbs the chemicals too readily, resulting in considerable damage to the hair shaft. I know it seems simple enough to slap some relaxer on those edges to get that sleek look, or to throw a box of color on those roots every time our natural, grays, browns, or blonds come peeking through, but the guidelines for using the products were created for a reason. so PLEASE...PLEASE...PLEASE stick to them!
  

• OVER- STYLING:

Over-styling is exactly what it suggests. Simply put it is too much manipulation of the hair, be it by combing, brushing, blow-drying, thermal curling, flat- ironing, straightening, or any combination of these styling methods. Despite your hair texture, or your ethnicity, hair  DOES NOT need to be shampooed, and styled on a daily basis. Over-shampooing can dry the hair, and styling with too much frequency can put hair in a position to split, and break over time. Another thing we do blindly is apply heat, heat, and more heat. It may seem nice to have your curls fall just right but cranking up the flat iron, or curlers to maximum heat and applying it to your hair even once can be detrimental.  So needless to say, baking your locks on a daily basis is a big time NO.  

Phew!!! that was a lot to cover, and we are not even close to the tip of the iceberg! Still to come, there is the unavoidable, the intentional, and the things that make us go hmmm! All to be visited in detail in STOP THE MADNESS... PART 2.  So until next time, hold on to your hair!!!

Recovering Weave Addict...

It's a well-known fact that everyone has a bad hair day every now and again.  With the hustle and bustle of everyday life, we can't always be on top of our hair; so the easy solution is to neglect our tresses with ponytails, over processing, bad weaves, and tight braids. This blog is intended to highlight the ever so common mistakes that we make with our precious hair.  From the cradle to the grave, some of us continue the relentless cycle.  It is time, to break free from the curse and rescue our gorgeous locks with a little love, a little conditioner, and a little advice from me. Enjoy!

Now, I know you all may be wondering what makes me so qualified to discuss hair in such a "matter of fact" tone.  Truth be told, I have been styling hair for quite a while now.  I started out as a kitchen hairdresser at the age of fourteen, cornrowing, weaving, relaxing, and wrapping hair for friends, friends of friends, and family. Eventually I got a job in a salon as a shampoo assistant, and my interest in hair was full -fledged. I went on to cosmetology school, and though I did not finish the program, I was there long enough to tie down my skill, with the knowledge of hair composition, structure, and maintaining health; not only from the scalp but from within the body.  Commonly we make the mistake of assuming that the health of the hair is restricted to just taking care of the hair that we see growing from our scalp.  On the contrary, it is very important to understand that if we neglect the scalp, and our overall health, the hair we have on our heads will be the only hair we have.  In other words, healthy hair will not continue to grow, without a healthy scalp, a healthy diet, and healthy hair care regimens.

It is necessary for you to understand that I myself have been a culprit of “less than perfect” hair practices.  I too was a slave to hair weaves, ponytails, relaxers, extensions, and hair neglect.  Despite what I knew about taking care of the hair, I was stuck in the vicious cycle of weave after weave. I would put in a weave to achieve a little length, take it out to see how long it was, relax it with excitement because of the growth, and repeat.  I like to call myself a recovering weave addict… I was stuck in the same pattern for years! I started in high school and now ten plus years later I have finally been without a weave or relaxer for nineteen months.  Now, I do not want anyone to feel like I am forcing them into the world of natural hair, that in itself is a whole different blog.  It was just the better choice for me given my hair type and experiences. It is very possible to have healthy growing hair with the use of chemicals, as long as you follow a few basic steps, and don’t over indulge, you too can be free from the cycle. Join me next time for a look into the dos and don'ts of healthy hair.